Sensational food and wine at newest Three West enterprise ***1/2

A fire dances in the grate as you sip a glass of wine and listening to soothing jazz. The atmosphere is the perfect set-up for exciting eating, a high light of which is hardwood charcoal grilled meat and fowl.

3 West is the newest eatery from Chester Moore Associates, creators of the Trap Rock Restaurant and Brewery in Berkeley Heights and the Huntley Taverne in Summit.

Bruce Johnson, the original chef at Trap Rock, supervises the action in 3 West's striking, glassed-in kitchen. He has worked at 28 in Montclair, in France, and at Bouley in New York City. His background is evident in the beautifully designed menu and well-crafted food.

There's a wine for everything and everyone. You'll want some, since it's on display throughout the room as craving-creating decor.

Although the restaurants calling card bills it as "fire/wine/jazz", beer drinkers are not neglected. Three offerings from Trap Rock are available for $4.50. There also are a number of interesting choices by the bottle.

Beer goes perfectly with the Pine Island Oysters on the half shell with spicy chipotle pepper sauce. If you want a more complicated appetizer, the Prince Edward Island steamed mussels in spicy coconut milk touched with cilantro and lemongrass are just the ticket.

The Maryland lump crab cake is as it should be - nice and meaty. For robust, try the seared duck leg confit with braised lentils and bacon.

For main course duck, there's a roasted breast with black pepper spaetzle. The little dumplings were light, but not really peppery. They went nicely with seared diced apples for a light, fruity taste that complemented the duck, which was as tender as it gets. The kitchen did not tinker with the buttery roast venison loin, which stood on its own considerable merits flanked by Israeli cous cous and fava beans.

Bits of wood supplementing the kitchen's charcoal fires give added taste to grilled meats and chicken. Choices include a pork chop with caramelized onions and roasted Yukon gold potatoes and a sumptuous beef tenderloin with a roasted shallot potato puree and sauteed spinach in a red wine sauce.

You could be tempted to skip dessert after all that eating, but linger a little longer; it's worth it. And we're not just talking about the fire, jazz and comfortable chairs. If you can manage only a few more bites, try the assorted cookies made in house, as are all the desserts. The almond meringue, chocolate and gingersnap treats could serve the table.

But it would be a shame to leave without tasting the port wine poached pear set against the coolness of creme fraiche and served with a wow of a pistachio cake and candied pistachios. The butterscotch ganache tart with vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate is far more filling, but worth it. The same should be said for the warm chocolate cake with raspberry sorbet and coulis.

Service was fine, though the busy staff couldn't always quite figure out who got what when the plates came around. Still, we got enough attention, and our needs were met promptly. Though the place was packed, it was noisy only in the lively bar.

3 West is a terrific addition to the New Jersey dining scene. It's a great place to relax and enjoy splendid food and wine.

Cody Kendall - Star Ledgar